This kit also includes the heavy spring for those that would like add more than 5 pounds of boost and want to take advantage of the ceramic ball. Our new Hallman Pro kit contains our new Hallman Pro valve.
The new Pro valve is machined out of billet aluminum and stainless steel pieces. The new design of the valve incorporates some great new features not currently available on any other manual boost controller. We have designed the Pro valve to not require the use of a lock nut or any type or allen wrench s to be able to adjust your boost.
Simply turn the adjustment knob and it stays. Another great feature is the fact that the adjustment knob cannot be lost or come out of the valve. Simply put there is not a potential for overboosting since the adjustment knob cannot vibrate loose and come out.
The Pro kit also includes: Standard Barb Fittings with 3 feet of vacuum line or -4 AN Fittings no lines included , mounting bracket, hardware packet and complete installation instructions all in one kit. If you have any problems in placing orders please email us at sales verociousmotorsports. Verocious will be closed on Monday, September 5th in observance of labor day. Normal business operation will resume September 6th.
Returning Customers click here to log in. The HBC will provide reliable control of boost with race proven results. Before you install your HBC you must already these components installed: a performance exhaust system, a low restriction air filter, and an after market boost gauge. An after market boost gauge is a must because most stock gauges will not read correctly at higher than stock boost levels. Raising your boost level will void your warranty and it can also destroy your engine if not done correctly.
To install the HBC on a single turbo application is simple and easy. It may be hard to install the lines on the controller. A tiny drop of motor oil on your finger and then applied to the fitting will allow for easier installation of the lines. Connect the HBC to the same barbs as explained above.
Be sure to secure all connections with wire ties. Mazda MX-6 - Ford Probe 2. You will want to remove the first section of intercooler pipe from the turbo to the plastic pipe, which holds the compressor bypass valve. You may also want to remove the plastic pipe with the bypass valve, as it will be easier to hook up the HBC with this out of the way. There is a port that points down off of the compressor side of the turbo.
The port is located right below where the intercooler pipe clamps to the turbo. There is a vacuum line connected to this port which is about 5 inches long. It runs to a port on the wastegate actuator which is located under the air inlet for the turbo. Disconnect this vacuum line from both ports. Run the line off of the Output wastegate of the HBC to the wastegate actuator port. Connect the Input boost source line to the port coming off of the compressor housing.
Use the wire ties to secure all connections. Reconnect all of the intercooler plumbing and make sure all of the clamps that you removed are tight. The solenoid is the little black box that is located on top of the turbo next to the intercooler plumbing.
Once you have located the solenoid, disconnect the air intake hose at the turbo and move it out of the way. This will make it easier to install the HBC. Next remove the vacuum line that goes from the boost control solenoid to the port on the turbo, which is located on the compressor housing just below and to the left. The port off of the compressor housing is where you will attach the Input boost Source line off of the HBC. Next follow the other line coming off of the solenoid down to the wastegate actuator which is located next to the air inlet hose.
Remove the stock vacuum line and attach the Output wastegate line off of the HBC here. Be sure to use the wire ties to secure all vacuum line connections. Toyota Supra 3. There is only one wastegate for both turbo's. There are two actuators, but only one is to the actual wastegate so make sure you are hooking up to the right one. Once you locate the actuator, you will want to disconnect the line that runs from the top port of the actuator to the VSV.
Use the supplied vacuum caps to block off the ports on the VSV and the top of the actuator where you removed this line. Next, locate the line that runs from the bottom port of the actuator to the compressor housing port. You will want to remove this line and hook the Input boost source line off of the HBC to the port on the compressor housing and the Output wastegate line off of the HBC to the wastegate actuator bottom port. Make sure to secure all connections with the supplied wire ties.
This is the pipe that is connected to the throttle body. Located on the side of the "Y" pipe, there is a port with a vacuum line that goes to a line distributor.
This distributor runs 3 other vacuum lines to the front and rear wastegate's and the boost control solenoid. Remove the distributor and the line that goes to the "Y" pipe. Use the supplied "T" to connect the Output wastegate line to the front and rear wastegate actuator lines. You can discontinue using the boost control solenoid as this will give you steadier boost without it. The ECU will still retard timing under knock to keep your motor safe.
We used a square to center our hole so that it will line up with the adjustment knob. We used the square to extend the line down and mark our hole on the back side of the compartment. This will fit and support the cable very nicely. Mount the adjustment knob bracket using very short machine screws and nuts. Here is your finished product. You can see where the drill bit comes through the firewall on the engine compartment side.
Here you can see the hole that we drilled. It will be much easier to install the cable through the firewall if the Strut Tower Brace is removed.
After the cable is installed it can be routed behind the kick plate and through the dash. Next, route the cable through the back of the compartment and attach it to the knob assembly, then the compartment can be mounted back into the dash of the car. We decided to mount the valve to the top of the cam position sensor on the side of the valve cover. To do this we had to remove the hard line from the bracket that feed vacuum to the BOV. Instead we installed a soft line from hard line off of the intake manifold to the BOV.
This allowed us to mount the valve to the cam sensor.
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